Part 2: Taoromina

October 20, 2010


Our first full day in Italy was fantastic.  The original plan was for us to follow D's friend to Catania to go to market.  However, when the time came, D confessed that she is extremely uncomfortable driving there, and asked if we'd be terribly disappointed if we didn't go.  Of course we didn't want to be the cause of unnecessary stress for our hostess, so our plans for the day changed.

We started out adventure by going to the base and getting a quick tour while D took care of some things.  Once that was done, we proceeded to Motta Sant' Anastasia to go the market there (a smaller version of what we would have experienced in Catania).  There were vendors selling all sorts of goods - fresh veggies, cheeses and meats, home goods, clothing, accessories, and anything else you can imagine.  We wandered around for a while, exploring everything.  Sam ended up with a bell pepper and a couple of onions for dinner that night, and D got some spoons and a banana for the baby.  I didn't get anything, just enjoyed taking in my surroundings.  It all reminded me of things I'd seen in Poland in years past.

After the market, we set out for Taoromina.  Oh my word!  It was everything we had expected when we planned our trip to Europe.  It's a small town built on the side of a hill, overlooking the sea.  When we first got out of the parking garage, there was a terrace from which you could see water and mountains for miles.  It was stunning!  I started snapping pictures of just about everything - the view, the church, the library, etc....

Just a few steps further, and we really entered the town.  The roads were all cobblestone and narrow.  The buildings were multiple stories, with store fronts on the ground level, and balconies filled with flowers up above.  Naturally, the picture snapping continued.  We explored a little bit, loving every moment.  D warned us that if we wanted to go into any shops, we should do so before lunch, as many businesses close in the afternoon for ripoza (a resting period that can last several hours, much like a siesta).

Not too long after our arrival,  it was declared time for lunch.  D took us to a restaurant she had been to before.  We were seated in a quasi-outdoor area with the most gorgeous view.  More picture snapping ensued.  We had a very nice waitress who kept coming over to play with G.  There was also a waiter that frequented our table, and walked around singing to himself.  I was struck with how different the pace of life is in Sicily (and maybe Europe in general).
And while we're on the subject of lunch...what a meal!!  It started out with fresh, yummy bread (including one kind that had sun-dried tomatoes) with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, of course.  G had some ravioli with sage butter, which D allowed us to sample.  Super yummy!   D had some risotto that was unbelievably rich and delicious.  Sam and I split some spaghetti with olive oil and garlic, and a pizza with spicy salami and peppers.  Both dishes were so simple, and simply incredible!  Just looking at it, there wasn't much to the spaghetti.  It was noodles, olive oil, fresh raw garlic, freshly grated cheese and some peppers.  However, the quality ingredients shone, and this was truly one of the best dishes I'd ever had.
The pizza was also superb.  It had the lightest, yummiest crust.  It was thin and crispy, but also bready and soft.  All of a sudden, I understood what Elizabeth Gilbert had been talking about in "Eat, Pray, Love."  Oh, and there had been an appetizer, too.  Some caprese - super fresh tomatoes and mozzarella cheese.  Anyone who claims to not like tomatoes clearly has never eaten fresh ones.  So good!!

Lunch was wrapping up.  Just about every morsel had been devoured, and we were all feeling full and happy.  The waiter came by and asked if we wanted any dessert, which we politely declined.  Then, Sam heard that there was cappuccino and ordered one.  The delightful waiter used this as an opportunity to mention that there was tiramisu.  The following conversation took place:

D: (turning to me)  Do you want to share some tiramisu?
Me:  (intrigued) Hmmm...
Waiter:  Okay!  I'll bring tiramisu and one cappuccino!

Hearty laughter followed.
Sam's cappuccino had a chocolate power smile, and the tiramisu was divine!  Entertained, content and full of some of the best food consumed in our lifetimes, we embarked on our adventure once more.

There was more walking around and enjoying the Old World style of everything.  Then, Sam and I went to the Greek amphitheater.  D chose to just walk around with the baby a sit, as she had already seen the amphitheater several times.  On our way in, a guy gave us his tickets.  We were tempted to use them, but in the end, guilt won, and we paid for our own tickets.  We walked all around the amphitheater, exploring every area and view, and taking lots of pictures.  The structure is all stone and brick, and looks like an old ruin, with grass growing between the stones in the stands.  However, it is still fully functional.  Concerts and events are held there, and while we were there, we saw a couple taking their wedding photos.
Behind the stage, some of the brick wall is missing, so you can see the view of the city and the water.  I can't even imagine how incredible it must be to be watching a concert and see all that too.

When we emerged from the amphitheater, D requested that we start heading back to the car, as the baby was getting cranky.  This was after she had presented Sam with a gift, which he was to open a little later.  Of course, we could not leave this beautiful, traditional little town without partaking in something truly Italian - gelato!  We stopped at a little shop that D recommended, where Sam got a coffee flavored treat, and I got a hazelnut one  (OMG!  So good!!!!).  We ate our gelato as we made our way to the car, then started to head home.

Sam opened his gift soon after, and it turned out to be mini-canollis, in three different flavors - traditional, pistachio and chocolate.  We proceeded to enjoy this yummy treat too.  I think the pistachio was my personal favorite.

On the way back to the base, Sam napped, I tried really hard not to nap, and we got a little lost.  After finding our way back, we stopped at the commissary for some grocery shopping.  D got away with paying for the rest of the ingredients for dinner that night (which Sam was making) because we were not "authorized customers."
After groceries, we stopped by B's office, then headed back to the house.  Sam made  goulash, which we had to enjoy without B, who was stuck at work for a while.  G had to go to bed soon after, but he needed a bath like whoa, as D had declared the goulash the messiest meal he had ever had.  Once he was settled, we gathered at the table to play some Disney Trivia.  B and D were kicking our butts for most of the game, but we pulled ourselves together at the end and squeaked out a win.  We had ice cream as we played, which brought the dessert count for the day up to four.

It was then time for us to go our separate ways so we could pack and get ready for our next adventure!